Blood Python Care Sheet
From Exotic Pet Wiki Pedia
Contents |
General
Scientific Names:
Python Curtus, Python Breitensteini, Python Brongersmai.
Size:
Hatchlings range from 10 inches-17 inches, Adult males typically range from 3-5 feet in length, and females between 4-6 feet although a few 7 footers have been recorded. These snakes are however a very robust snake and almost always look overweight, but this is just their general appearance.
Longevity:
A captive bred, healthy Blood Python can live up to and over 20 years.
Active during:
Night, a nocturnal species.
Behaviour:
Nervous by nature.
Temperament
Generally labeled as aggressive, but CB animals with correct handling and care should be tame and non aggressive.
Ease of care
Intermediate, prior snake keeping knowledge required.
Housing
Vivarium:
All housing needs to be secure no matter what it is, The last thing you want is an escapee. Juvenile Blood Pythons like to feel secure so a small tub/tray would be good to start with, around 15 inches long x 10 inches wide. Adults however should be housed in a minimum of 3 foot long and 18 inches deep Vivaria. Larger is better, but not too big, this may cause stress to the snake.
Accessories:
Blood Pythons are very shy and secretive. They need to feel secure, this is why I recommend the use of 2 hides in the set up, one in the hot and one in the cool end. The snake will be able to stay safe and secure under or in his hide while not having to compromise heating. I recommend the use of Cork Bark, it is cheap to acquire and can be found in a variety of lengths and sizes which you can break/cut up accordingly.
Humidity
A quick spray once or twice a day should provide good humidity. When your snake is in shed, this should be doubled. Sphagnum moss will provide ample humidity if kept moist. Humidity should be kept at around 60-70% or higher when in shed.
Heating
Heat mats can be used, inside or under the housing but must be used with a Mat Stat to regulate the temperature of the mat. Ceramics are used in the same fashion as ordinary bulbs however I recommend using specialist ceramic bulb holders, as these are resistant to heat and wont shatter over time. Ceramics should be used with a Pulse Proportional Stat. A thermometer should be present at all times, an analog or digital thermometer is fine but it must be accurate either way so you can keep an eye on temperatures.
Temperatures should be maintained at 88 - 90 F (31 – 32* C) during the day at the hot spot, with an ambient temperature that mustn’t fall below 75 F. Night time temperatures can fall to around 75 F (23 -24* C)
Light
Blood Pythons, like most snakes require 13-14 hours worth of lighting in the summer months and 11-12 in winter. If you are using a bulb to keep the ambient temperature right at night - use red bulbs as snakes cannot see the infra-red heat rays being emitted. For the day time a standard bulb is ok. Be sure to use wire light guards to prevent your snake from burning itself. Personally I implement a Red bulb on a dimming thermostat as this will maintain the hotspot and ambient temperatures, at night this can be simply turned off if in a warm room otherwise supplemental heating will be required overnight.
Substrate
Newspaper is the easiest to obtain, clean and to spot clean/change. You can also use Shredded Cypress bark, Aspen shavings, Orchid bark to add a more aesthetic touch, however I recommend feeding in a separate container if these are to be used to avoid accidental ingestion.
Diet:
Food
Blood Pythons should be offered mice and rats in captivity, And are easily bought from your local dealer. A hatchling Blood Python will usually start with small mice and when adult should feed on adult large rats. A general rule is you can feed a mouse or rat that is in equal width to the widest part of the body. A slight bulge should be visible in your snakes stomach. When this bulge is no longer visible, the snake may be able to move up onto the next size food, but check to see it isn’t too big in comparison, the width rule still applies. Chicks lack the nutrients rats and mice possess. However, if your snake is a fussy feeder then a chick is better than nothing. Rats are also more nutritious than mice so the sooner they are onto rats the better. Foods should be offered by a pair of forceps so that you are away from striking distance. As mentioned before, try tub feeding where substrate other than paper is present.
Water
Blood Pythons should always have access to fresh, clean water, this should be changed daily or whenever it becomes dirty, whichever comes first. Blood Pythons enjoy a good soak from time to time and also like to defecate in the water.
Frequency
Every 7 - 10 days.
Supplements
None needed.
Breeding
Requirements
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Seasons
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Incubation
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Further information or considerations:
Potential health problems commonly found with Blood and Short-Tailed Pythons are respiratory infections, this is normally due to lack of room to stretch out and high humidity. Humidity must be spot on, too much is as detrimental to the animal’s health as too little.
Reference: http://drbloods.co.uk/
